Mystery Worshipper: Seoirse
Church:
Charlotte Chapel
Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
Date of visit: Sunday, 29 June 2025, 7:00pm
The building
A beautiful, enormous building with a tall clocktower. There is some gorgeous stained glass behind the elegantly carved dais and pulpit. The congregation moved into the building, which formerly belonged to St George’s West Church, in 2016.
The church
The church congregation traces its origins back to 1808, when a young man started gospel outreach work in the Pleasance district of Edinburgh, where there was no church. Those who were converted asked him to start a church and become their pastor. The church was significant in the 1905-07 revival, and has a history of supporting Christian missionary work around the world, and of local social initiatives. The evening service I attended seemed to be about 50-50 over 60 and under 40. I imagine this would be different during term time.
The neighborhood
Shandwick Place is where Edinburgh's well-to-do West End meets Princes Street, the main road that separates the Old and New Towns. The surrounding buildings are a mix of gorgeous Georgian architecture and modern retail units – there is a Pound Shop just across the road.
The cast
One of the pastors in training led the first part of the service, giving one of the prayers and one of the readings. A laywoman gave another reading. Another pastor in training gave the sermon and doxology. A six-strong worship band led the singing.
What was the name of the service?
Sunday evening service.How full was the building?
The building could seat around 300 in three sections of seats. By kick-off, the building was almost full.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
I was handed a Bible on my way in, and a bloke sat down next to me just before the service started and we exchanged greetings.
Was your pew comfortable?
It was a reasonably comfy cushioned chair. Nothing to write home about.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
The band was rehearsing, and some people were chatting and greeting each other, but nothing raucous.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
‘My name is — and it is my joy to welcome you in the name of the Lord.’
What books did the congregation use during the service?
Hardback copies of the New International Version were handed out at the start, but many had their own copies, or were reading off their phones. The words to the songs were projected above the pulpit and on screens to the side.
What musical instruments were played?
One amplified acoustic, one electric, one bass, one set of keys and the dread cajon.
Did anything distract you?
There was a decent amount of feedback coming from the amps during the songs. I also didn't know any of the songs, but that's hardly their fault.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
Cool, calm, collected – and conservative. A standard reformed order of service – hymns, readings, extended extemporaneous prayers, long expository sermon, final hymn and doxology – with contemporary music and a fairly informally-dressed cast. The pastors were in open-neck shirts and slacks; the worship team, who looked to be in their 20s, were in jeans and t-shirts. There was a minimal amount of muttered agreement during the prayers, and I only spotted two people with their hands in the air during the singing.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
39 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
6 — The preacher was French. His English was impeccable and his accent almost (but not quite!) unnoticeable.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
Taking the ‘bread of life’ discourse in John chapter 6 as his text (as well as Exodus chapter 16 and the manna in the wilderness), the pastor set out a solid five-point Calvinist theology. Our earthly food will perish, but Jesus’ life is eternal. We are given to Jesus by the Father, whose sovereignty precedes our action of believing. Nothing given to Jesus by the Father will be lost, so we are assured of our salvation.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
The final song was reasonably moving, and I had a good chat with the bloke sitting next to me afterwards – about the fact that there are two Bangors in the UK, as it happens.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
The singing seemed a little low-energy, though this may be relative to my experience in more charismatic churches. I disagree, plain and simple, with the theology of the sermon, but it was preached skilfully, clearly and convincingly. And I will simply never get along with extended extemporaneous prayer of the reformed style.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
I didn't have to hang around. My neighbour and I picked up where we left off at the start. After that, I wandered over to the visitors’ table and dusted off my French to discuss the sermon with the pastor.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
So-so instant coffee. But it was decaf, thankfully! And there were bourbons and custard creams. What's not to like?
How would you feel about making another visit (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
4 — By the grace of God, I'm not a Calvinist, so it seems unlikely.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
It sure made me glad to be an Episcopalian.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time ?
The stained glass and the lovely pulpit. And trying to remember how to say ‘irresistible grace’ in French.