Mystery Worshipper: Stu Pormundi
Church:
San Marcos, Madrid
Location: Spain
Date of visit: Sunday, 5 October 2025, 12:30pm
The building
18th century baroque extravaganza hidden behind a plain exterior, tucked away on a quiet street, Calle de San Leonardo.
The church
The church has Caritas and Catholic Action groups for social service, and faith formation groups. There are three Masses on a Sunday, the latest at 7.30 pm. A board outside the church welcomes visitors in Spanish and English.
The neighborhood
The church is a stone’s throw from the busy Plaza de España, and not far from the shops, theatres and hotels of Gran Via. The street itself has some classic 19th century apartment buildings, as well as nondescript modern ones.
The cast
My guess is that the parish priest presided and preached. An altar server assisted (of which more shortly). Everything was in Spanish.
What was the name of the service?
Mass for 27th Sunday of Ordinary Time, Year C.How full was the building?
Mostly full, perhaps 150 people. The church has a modest footprint but is under a soaring dome topped with a lantern cupola, which creates a sense of light and space.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
No.
Was your pew comfortable?
It was a hard, penitential wooden bench, which promptly fired up my arthritis.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
Quiet, with a few murmured conversations.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
En el nombre del Padre, del Hijo y del Espiritu Santo.
What books did the congregation use during the service?
None.
What musical instruments were played?
An organ and violin, both played expertly. A lady conducted the choir in vigorous style.
Did anything distract you?
Two things. A large statue of St Mark writing his Gospel looomed above the altar, and above that two angels were perched on a ledge, rather precariously, I thought. Also the boy server wore a bright yellow shirt which for one aghast moment I thought might be a football strip (it wasn't). At the eucharistic prayer he stood next to the priest as if he were a concelebrant.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
The choir seemed of near-professional standard, but I think was composed of local people. We sang parts of the Mass (the Kyrie, Gloria, etc.) to different Mass settings.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
10 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
8 — The priest spoke without notes from a hand-held mic in front of the altar. I suspect that this leads to some prolixity.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
The disciples wanted to increase their faith, but how can this happen? Jesus made it possible by his parables and through the example of his life. We need a faith that does not end at the door of the house but goes out with us into the world. Faith stimulates our conscience and thus our actions.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
The choir sang beautifully and with evident enjoyment. A particular mention of a tenor cantor, who sang the Gospel acclamation with panache.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
After communion the choir sang a lovely meditative Gregorian chant. I hoped for a prayerful silence to follow, but alas no. Oremos, barked the priest. Certainly not hellish, but a disappointment.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
Those who knew each other exchanged greetings, but mostly people hurried away. To be fair, I didn't linger myself.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
There was none as far as I could see.
How would you feel about making another visit (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
10 — Visiting Madrid, I would most certainly go again.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time ?
The joy of the choir.